Hundreds of pale rhubarb stalks loom in near-darkness, illuminated only by a handful of candles.
This atmospheric harvest at the Tomlinsons’ farm in Pudsey, Leeds – within the “rhubarb triangle” of West Yorkshire – continues a tradition unchanged for 150 years. “It’s grown in the dark and we harvest it by candlelight,” says Robert Tomlinson, who runs the farm with his wife, Paula.
Forced rhubarb is produced in sheds where light is excluded, stopping photosynthesis and retaining sugar in the stalk rather than the leaves.
“We cut out the photosynthesis. So there’s no chlorophyll in there and the sugar stays in the stick rather than going into the leaves,” Robert explains. “Outdoor rhubarb can be really acidic and stringy, whereas this is a completely different crop.”
Unlike garden rhubarb, forced rhubarb is ready in winter and early spring, and its vivid pink colour and sweeter taste have seen it soar in popularity: Tesco recently reported sales had doubled since last year.
Some of the Tomlinsons’ varieties date back to those grown by Robert’s great-grandfather, with a “new” variety introduced in the 1970s. This era was marked by a decline in interest when imported fruit became widely available. However, forced rhubarb has found renewed appeal in an age of fresh seasonal produce, with rhubarb gins, sodas and preserves fuelling its comeback. Its striking appearance also resonates on social media.
London-based food writer Thea Everett, who produces the What’s That You’re Cooking, Thea? newsletter, is a firm devotee of Yorkshire forced rhubarb. “As someone who loves to cook, I think its tartness and acidity mean it is a brilliant partner for sweeter flavours and bakes, which can be such a pick-me-up at this time of year.”
She devised a malted milk and rhubarb cheesecake recipe to celebrate this seasonal gem. “I think its vibrant colour in the depths of winter grey is key to its popularity, and a big reason we all love to see it come out to play on Instagram,” she says.
Despite its rising fame, forced rhubarb is not always easy to source. “Despite being from the UK, it’s bloody hard to find!” Thea observes, recalling she once ran 15km to buy some. Weather challenges and an ageing workforce threaten future supplies, though Robert notes a growing enthusiasm among younger growers.
Yorkshire forced rhubarb now appears on menus worldwide, prompting Robert to remark, “I still can’t believe it myself, to be fair.”
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